“There were tears, there was injury and a bizarre moment of being treated like a homeless person”.
Visiting Machu Picchu in the flesh held the number one spot on my bucket list for as long as I remember. So you can imagine the expectations I placed on this whole experience. (No pressure!).
But truth be told, it was nothing like I had imagined at all.
When I finally saw this wonder with my own eyes I was rendered completely dumbfounded. My seemingly high placed expectations quickly dissolved into a puddle on the floor. I had no words, because there are no words that exist that can truly capture the magnitude of Machu Picchu’s sheer magnificence!
BUT LET’S GET TO THE JUICE!
Because my 5 day journey to get to this moment of awe tells a completely different story. One of hardship, tears, adrenaline and stomach churning swells of self doubt…
DAY 1. THE HILLS ARE ALIVE!
[10 hour trek from Mollepata to Soraypampa]
I had a sound of music moment! The rolling green hills and bright blue sky put a rhythmic skip in my step. I was living in my own musical movie.
1 hour in, I was drenched in sweat but motoring ahead with blind enthusiasm. But a tickle of sickness bubbled in my throat and swallowing become a labored task. Uh oh!
“NO! I can’t get sick, Ive been waiting for this moment my whole bloody life!”
5 hours in and the altitude slowed me down to a snail’s crawl. Each step required more and more effort. Thankfully I was buoyed by a stunning view of a snow capped mountain in the distance. Our guide told us we would trek to the base of that mountain. I soldiered on but by this stage I was nursing a pretty severe cough!
After ten hours we arrived at our accommodation; A town of tiny tents piled into a tin roofed shed. The sun disappeared and the sub-zero temperatures emerged. My lungs were now screaming at me!
A fellow backpacker was struck down with altitude sickness and I listened as this poor German guy sobbed himself to sleep. It was a restless night ahead of me. The 6 layers of clothing couldn’t shield the chill from my bones and my cough (now sounding like a hacking bark) would keep me awake for the 9 hours we were supposed to be asleep.
DAY 2. I WANT TO GO HOME!
[Salkantay Pass to Chaulley]
Yep. I channeled Dorothy from the wizard of Oz “I want to go home Toto!”. But home was on the other side of the world and we were miles from civilization. Home was not an option.
In frozen zombie mode, I stepped outside and mustered the will to keep on truckin’. But my fuel tank was empty, my health depleting and my legs had turned to lead.
The tour guide suggested I take the next leg of the trek on horse back. But before I could even respond, a river of frustrated tears escaped my eyes.
I don’t want to ride a horse!
Now I don’t know if it was the altitude talking or what, but riding a horse equaled defeat in my irrational mind. I didn’t travel half way across the world to get to Machu Picchu by horse. I came here to walk the journey just as the Incas did damn it! (Adult tantrum mode in full flight here).
But reality sunk in. I couldn’t fight my body’s pleas. It begged me to rest. So I clambered on to “pacho” the horse, with my deflated spirits dragging in the dirt behind me.
Half smile for the camera. But you know how I’m really feeling 😉
By 10am we reached Salkantay Pass. I stood with my jaw to the floor. The scenery was unreal. I felt like I had stepped into a painting. So many rich textures and blended colours!
Our tour group made little rock pile sculptures as an offering to Pachamama (she’s a kick ass goddess who sustains life on this earth). It was nice to pause and have a moment to connect with mother nature. And at the high altitude of 15,200 feet above sea level, I’ve never felt more grounded.
A surge of adrenaline pumped through my veins. (Thank you Pachamama!). So I bid farewell to trusty “Pacho” and marched forth with both feet planted on the ground.
And marched we did!
My tour group legged it down the mountain. Within 3 hours we went from freezing temperatures to jungle humidity and off came the layers! It was heavenly thawing out my bones in some tropical heat.
Our tour guide praised us as the fastest group he had ever led through the mountains and affectionately nicknamed us “THE PUMAS”!
But this little Puma was a little hasty down the mountain not realizing that I was jamming my toes deeper and deeper into my hiking boots with every step… Any guesses where this is going?
By the time I reached our next camp site… you guessed it… bye bye nails!
My toe nails were bruised to the root and would change over the coming weeks from brown to black, to eventually dislodging themselves from the nail bed entirely! yay. (I shall spare you the photos but what your imagination is picturing is probably spot on).
After making peace with my doomed toe nails, I was delighted to learn that this camp site offered showers, and better still, a 10 minute HOT shower for $10! (Best $10 I ever spent! I could honestly write a whole blog post about my crazy appreciation for running water!).
RESTING PUMAS
DAY 3. THE ANTS GO MARCHING..
[Sahuayaco to Santa Theresa]
We were but tiny ants in the great expanse of the Peruvian landscape. I honestly feel like my photos don’t do it justice. When you journey through nature carrying the bare minimum on your back you realise just how little you miss the things you thought you needed. Life is simpler this way, purer and void of all that trash we’re sold in the media that fear mongers our ego-driven insecurities. I am free!
As you probably noted, I did a lot of thinking on day 3. I’ve never been able to sit and meditate (although I romanticise the idea of it) but this was my first successful experience of a walking meditation. Huzzah!
By late afternoon we reached the next camp site. And after three days of butchering our weary legs, it was time to blow off some serious steam.
We danced around the camp fire, drank like a band of merry men and howled (or in my case coughed) at the moon like the wildlings we were!
PARTYING PUMAS
DAY 4. I THINK I CAN, I THINK I CAN!
[Santa Theresa to Aguas Calientes]
Day 4 was zip-lining day. Totally optional but I signed up anyway because this was my year of YES!
So I have this fear of heights. I suffer from vertigo. But when you find yourself on the other side of the world, battling epic terrain, smelling like dirt and bonding with 3 day old friends, you find yourself high on a super drug called “LIFE”.
And guess what!? it turns out I friggin’ LOVE zip lining. It’s the closest I’ve ever felt to flying. If reincarnation is an option, then I’m coming back as a beautiful bird! (Not a flightless bird. That would be most unfortunate).
Overcoming fear is not the easiest thing to face but the reward on the other side of that little leap of faith can often be life changing.
Sometimes all it takes is to simply show up!
Machu Picchu is now so close I can taste it. But after the exhilarating high of the zip lining experience came a crushing low. As we embarked on the final stretch of this journey, my head went woolly and my body weak. I tripped and twisted my ankle. Blast! My hoarse cough was now out of control and I began cursing myself for drinking and staying up late the night before. Silent tears dampened my cheeks.
But the beauty of this trek is that there is no such thing as “going back”, you can only move forwards, one step in front of the next with a most rewarding prize at the finish line to bait you along; Machu Picchu.
And just like the little engine that could… I adopted the mantra “I think I can, I think I can”.
Slowly but surely after 5 hours of walking along train tracks we made it to Aguas Calientes. We made it to civilization. The gathering place for the thousands of tourists who visit Machu Picchu daily. A place where hotels and restaurants buzzed, where toilets flushed and my head could finally rest on a pillow in a warm and toasty bed. And with that, I was out like a light, left to dream about the reward that tomorrow would bring.
DAY 5. MACHU PICCHU HERE I COME!
My alarm goes off at 4:30am. I am death warmed up.
I drag my sorry self out of bed at this ridiculous hour just to make sure I am first in line at the bus stop, to be on the first bus up the mountain, to be the first one through the gates.
But as I said before, I am death warmed up. I can barely see. I can barely walk. Any doctor would tell me to stay in bed. But nothing was going to stop me from seeing the one thing I have been waiting to see my whole life!
The Pumas, of course, were the first through the gates. Our tour guide led us to an opening. It was dark, it was raining and Machu Picchu was shrouded in fog. We couldn’t see ANYTHING.
Our guide started sharing, what I believe were wonderful anecdotes about this sacred land, but my ears were muffled and I struggled to hear. I stifled my coughs so as not to kill the experience for my fellow travellers but my body begged me to just lie down.
Here’s the moment I felt like a homeless person.
I snuck away from the group and found a patch of rock to lie on. Within minutes an official told me I couldn’t lie there. So I moved on and found a bench near the entrance. I managed a 15 minute nap before another official woke me up and moved me on. I felt like a huge inconvenience for everyone so I walked back to the bus shelter and slept on a bench tightly hugging my possessions and hoping to be left alone in peace. An hour later I woke up surrounded by stray dogs. I couldn’t help but laugh at the situation I found myself in. I easily passed as homeless.
But the sleep did me wonders! The fog had lifted, the rain dried up and the flirty sun peeked in and out of the clouds! So off I trotted in search of my man who already had a 2 hour head start exploring magical Machu Picchu.
As I said right at the beginning of this epic tale, there are truly no words that capture Machu Picchu’s magnificence. It is grander than grand. Impossible to take in. It is awe-inspiring and totally mind blowing.
How did the Incas do it? How did they build a city that has stood the test of hundreds of life times high up in the clouds? How?
So little is known about this hidden wonder. So many questions, for centuries, unanswered. It really is an engineering feat of humankind.
As I continue to struggle to find the words to describe this holy haven, I shall leave you with my photo diary of the time I spent up there attempting to take it all in and making friends with Llamas.
If Machu Picchu isn’t on your bucket list I implore you to add it now! And before you freak out and think you have to endure my 5 day adventure, there are much simpler ways of getting there.
I can not express enough the magic of travel and its soul enriching powers. The opportunity to expose yourself to different cultures, foods, experiences and people will only enhance your character and life story. It will make you a more tolerant and compassionate human being with a unifying sense of OUR WORLD. So do yourself a favour and get out there a book an adventure now. I promise you, you won’t regret it.
And once again, over to you! What are you bucket list items? I’d love to hear what you have right at the top? I’m looking to add to mine so I welcome your thoughts in the comment section below!
Lots of love
Peanut xo
Machu PIcchu has been on the top of my bucket list since primary school! I loved reading your story, however you did scare me a little, haha
Do you have to be really fit to do the trek? And what time of year did you go?
Congrats on completing despite your setbacks :))
Thanks Britt!
I would say it helps to be moderately fit. But we had people of varying fitness levels in our group. You can go at your own pace.
Don’t be deterred by my story. I was just struck down by the flu making it doubly hard!
I did the trek in November last year. I am so excited for you to do this trip, with or without the trek!
Gemma xo
Your trip sounds amazing and awe- inspiring (albeit the coughing). My bucket list would definitely have to be Morocco and Tanzania :-). I was just wondering how much the whole tour and trip cost, roughly?
Ps. I love your blog!
Oh wow. Where specifically in Morocco and Tanzania?
The whole 5 day trek including food, tent and sleeping bag was $220 US!
I always recommend booking when you get there because everything is negotiable.
Some people on my tour paid $400 because they booked in advance. Rookie error.
Thank you for your support towards my blog! xo
Wow, wow and WOW again. What beautiful stunning pictures and such a tale – loved it. I could have heard so much more, definitely not too long Gem 🙂
I have always wanted to go to Machu Picchu but am nervous that my asthma will not survive the altitude. and my dodgy knee won’t manage the hills for five days walking on such terrain. Your story is definitely inspirational and makes me want to just go and give it a go though. Maybe I should try your mantra – I think I can, I think I can 🙂 LOVE IT 🙂
Well done for overcoming your illness and fears to live your dream I absolutely love this and want to hear more about your adventures. xoxo
Thank you for your words Pippa! Even if you don’t do the trek, visiting Machu Picchu alone will satisfy any wanderluster.
It’s just so magnificent. You can even get there by a scenic train ride. Pretty cool.
Once again, thank you for your continued love + support towards my blog. Sending you nothin’ but good vibes. Love Gem x
Hey Gemma do you have any recommendations for accommodation in
Antigua Guatemala?
Is it recommended to book before you go or is it easy enough to just rock up somewhere?
We’re heading up to pachu pitchu also so I’m loving your new post!
Xo
Hi Corrie!
If you’re looking for a hostel, Jungle Party is fun! They have cool rooftop bar with swings! xo
Wow Gemma, every week I feel like you’re living the life I always dreamt of but 35 years in a wheelchair and the last 15 unable to get from bed to wheelchair made impossible. So thanks for giving us this opening on the fantastic world around us, and the sheer joy (even when you are feeling like you’re on death’s door or waving your toenails farewell) that permeates every sentence and every photograph. x
This is awesome Gemma! Absolutely love the photos (especially with the llama ). Definitely the kick in the butt I need to start ticking off the bucket list and not just adding to it!
The top few on mine currently are seeing the northern lights, a road-trip around Australia (we have so much beauty in our back yard!) and Peru!
X
Hello my gorgeous name-sake. I agree! There is so much beauty in our back yard. An Australian road trip is high on my bucket list too!
Very keen to see the twelve Apostles and check out the great barrier reef!
xo
Great commentary Gemma. Can I ask, is there any specific reason why you chose this trek? It seems strange that you trekked for 5 days then ultimately got a bus up to Machu Picchu. Friends of mine did the 4 day Inca Trail option and arrived on foot at the Machu Picchu Sungate at dawn. I think I’d need that feeling of accomplishment!
I chose the Salkantay trek because it is the longest and the least popular. Is it no where near as the crowded Inca Trail. The Inca trail also doesn’t have the variation of scenery as The Salkantay Trek. AND you have to book 3 months ahead to secure a spot on the Inca trail. I didn’t want to restrict my travel dates. I was able to book the Salkantay trek 2 days before departure.
I probably should have mentioned this in my post… I caught the 10 minute bus ride up the mountain to Machu Picchu while the rest of my group hiked up. I couldn’t hike in my condition at 4am (although I desperately wanted to!). So just like the Inca trail, you would ordinarily still be arriving by foot. But with the Inca trail, you arrive much later in the day, so you don’t get to be the first through the gate when the park is still empty.
Hope this answer your questions. Let me know if I can help you out with anything else.
Gemma x
Incredible story, incredible pictures!
Thanks Amara! xo
First thing, I want to thank you for choosing to write the long version of your trek to Machu Picchu, I’m sorry you had to suffer with the flu but the fact that you soldiered on doing whatever you had to do in order to reach your goal is admirable; a testament to an amazing mental and physical strength. My studies in college took me to the rain forest in Peru but sadly I was unable to make it to Machu Picchu. Since I was a teenager I have wanted to visit all fifty states here in the US, as of now I have only six left! At the very top of my list is to see or at least hear a wolf in the wild. Of course an entire pack of wolves would be even better! Thanks again for sharing your adventure and the beautiful photos.
Wow Melanie! Six states to go. What a fantastic bucket list you’ve ticked off so far.
I haven’t heard of a wolf in the wind before. You’ve certainly got me googling!
Thanks for sharing. I hope you get to tick off the remaining 6 soon and one day get a chance to visit Machu Picchu once and for all!
Love Gemma x
Hey Gemma! Loved the post and your photos!
I’ve always wanted to try trekking! But I’m not sure I’m up for a 5 day trek! It’s amazing how you completed yours while suffering from a terrible cough! I wanted to know if there are any treks that are very scenic but not 5 days long?
Love,
From India
Yes there are! There are actually options for a 2 or 3 day trek to Machu Picchu too. No doubt the scenery will also be stunning. Plus you’ll never be disappointed when you reach Machu Picchu. It’s mind blowing! xx
Wow gemm!! Sounds fantastic. It seems like such an amazing trip to do. Ive always loved aventures!! Im soo going to do this onee somedaayyy. Hope you can come to colombia again (i saw you were in medellin) its such a beautiful place, full of happy people! And you must visit the beaches around, like santa marta and baru…they are breathtaking destinations! Loved your page, is full of inspiring things to fill my day with.
Sending you all my love.
From an adventurer’s heart to another.
-Lina
Hi Lina,
Thank you so much for your comment. I’m so in LOVE in Colombia. I honestly feel like I could live there.
I fell madly in love with Santa Marta and swooned over the stunning scenery of Tyrona National Park.
I hope you have some upcoming adventures abroad. I know I’m biased, but I can’t recommend Australia enough. So many hidden pockets to explore.
Sending love fellow adventurer!
x
Did you pick up your sweater and your toque when you got there? You look like you belong there in your wool.
Hey Gemma,
I would love to know what tour company you used for Machu Picchu and Bolivia Salt Flats as we’re looking at doing a similar trip at the end of the year and yours looked so amazing and included all the things we’re after experiencing!
Hope Mummahood is treating you well!
Thanks
Em xx